Traveling Around In Amazing Iceland, Summer 2011
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 20, 2011. The Faroe Islands
The ferry fare to Iceland from Hirtshals in Denmark will take you past The Faroe Islands and offer you a 3 hour stay at the harbor in Thorshavn
The Faroe Islands seen from the ferry M/S Norrona
National Geographic Traveler has voted The Faroe Islands the best islands destination in the world in a survey of 111 island communities. The Faroe Islands was on top of the list, and was given the verdict "Authentic, unspoilt and likely to remain so", being the only destination to score so high.
The total area is approximately 1,400 km² with a 2010 population of almost 50,000.
But for unknown reasons I have never wanted to visit the islands on the journey towards Iceland, I think it might have something to do with not wanting to waste 2 days out of the 14 you get in Iceland. On a might be future trip back to Iceland, I will consider taking a stopover here, to visit the greatest islands i the world...
Link: http://www.visitfaroeislands.com/
Approaching The Faroe Islands
A remote farm on The Faroe Islands
The light tower at Thorshavn habor
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Thursday, August 18, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 21, 2011. Seydisfjörður to Ásbyrgi
Arriving in Iceland, at the village Seydisfjörður, the ferry passes through the lovely fjord with the same name.
The ferry M/S Norröna passing though the fjord Seydisfjörður
This year Iceland welcomed us with lovely warm weather, - nearly no winds, blue skies and a very comfortable temperature. Thus we could fully enjoy the passage though the beautiful fjord on our way to the harbor at the root of Seydisfjörður, admiring the reflection of the mountains in the calm waters of the fjord.
Seydisfjörður are one of the most well preserved cities in Iceland, most of the houses and buildings are kept nearly original. This fact, I learned later, would be due to the relatively poor income the inhabitants have had here, depending on fishing as the only way to earn a living in this fjord. Nowadays this is a city witch benefits from the tourism, and tourists arriving via the ferry from Denmark. Several hotels and a camping site now serve the tourists.
From Seydisfjörður we went on towards the
The Ásbyrgi canyon are a spectacular horseshoe shaped canyon with vertical walls. Ásbyrgi were formed during two catastrophic floods in the Jökulsá river, the first flood occurred about 8 to 10 thousand years ago, and the second around 3 thousand years ago.
Sadly, after returning home, I learned that on our way we missed the deserted Village Skálar on the tip of the 40 km long peninsula reaching Northeast into the sea towards Langanesgrunn, one more thing to add on the list of to see on a might to be later third visit to the amazing Iceland.
The moon visible above a part of the mountain range Langafjall in the fjord Seydisfjörður
Reflections in the water at the fjord Seydisfjörður
Part of river delta formed by the glacial river Jökulsá á Brú
Some flowers in front of the mountain Herfell (1.055 m.)
Overlooking the plains Hróarstrunga and Héraðssandur and the rivers Jökulsá á Brú and Largarfljöt
The river delta Héraðssandur seen top center
The black lava beach at Vopnafjördur
More of the cost line at Vopnafjördur
Cliff in the ocean outside the deserted farm Böðvarsdalur
A waterfall near the cost line at Vopnafjörður
The pond at the extreme inner end of the horseshoe in the Ásbyrgi canyon
Another view overlooking the pond in the Ásbyrgi canyon
Ásbyrgi canyon, a view towards the centre ship-like cliff called the Island
The outer arc of the Ásbyrgi canyon seen from top of the centre cliff called the Island
Flowers on top of the centre cliff at Ásbyrgi canyon
A small buch clings onto the top edge of the up to 100 m. high hillside at Ásbyrgi canyon
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Saturday, August 20, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 22, 2011. Ásbyrgi to Akureyri
This second day in Iceland were a slow one, actually I hardly remember why we didn´t cover a longer distance that day.
A beautiful lava cliff at the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river
From Ásbyrgi we drove due south via the mountain road F862 heading towards a revisit from last year, to the most powerful waterfall in Iceland, and in Europe for that matter, - Dettifoss in the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river.
On our way towards Dettifoss we took a small detour to the riverbeds of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum at Hijóðakletta, where we discovered that there is a small quiet camping site near the river, note taken for a possible revisit here. We spent some hours hiking along the powerful river downstream from Dettifoss.
Amongst the beautiful places we experienced where a tall lava cliff called ´The Cathedral´. The name obviously where given to this place because the cliff resembles a church with its spire and the church alter being a very small cave at the ground.
Arriving later on at Dettifoss we learned that this day, and the day before, the waterfall itself where kind of of limits due to a Hollywood production being filmed at the waterfall.
We where told that it was forbidden to take photographs of the set at the fall. We where also lead of to a rather distance place from where the waterfall could only be seen in the distance. Rather a disappointment, I´m happy we where here on two occasions last year, because from this far away you could not experience the great power of the waterfall, the most powerful in all of Europe, with a average flow of 193.000 liters per second, and a peak flow 3 times this (600.000) during floods.
The road to the waterfall had changed since last year, and the small narrow jeep track from the parking lot to the main road where now a paved very wide road, and it actually took some of the fascination away from this special place.
From Dettifoss we took the main road 1 west to the next stop at another waterfall, the beautiful Goðafoss. Goðafoss is closely connected with one of the most important events in Icelandic history, the conversion to Christianity from heathendom or ´the old custom´ in the year 1.000. We were blessed with the forming of a opening in the clouds just after we arrived, thus the evening sun brightened the water with some warm rays from the sun.
From Goðafoss we drove further west to camp overnight at the city Akureyri in the fjord Eyafjörður. Akureyri are the
The Cathedral
The Jökulsá á Fjöllum river
Lava cliff near the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river with a amazing pattern
The Jökulsá á Fjöllum river
The Grótháls hill
Under some lovely clouds somewhere on mountain road F862 going south towards Dettifoss
The waterfall Goðafoss
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Sunday, August 21, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 23, 2011. Akureyri to Dæli
Levelling expectations on tourist attractions with reality can sometimes be difficult, and this day we were in for a little disappointment.
Driving into the valley that extends from the fjord Eyjaförður
Leaving early from the camping site at Hrafnagil we went towards the jeep track F821 leading south into the desolated highlands and Laugafell (879 m.).
The track went deep into the bottom of the valley witch rises from the fjord Eyjaförður. As we got higher and higher and deeper into the valley it became more and more narrow, ending in a last very step twisting track filled with small boulders, so at this point we had good use of the low ratio gearbox concurring the summit.
The valley itself were very green, covered in grass everywhere, and the jeep track followed a small river most of the way. But as you would expect from Iceland (at least if you have been here before) the land at the summit were a deserts of stones and boulders, with quite a few spots of snow and ice.
We drove onwards towards Laugafell and the small cabins and the campsite set up here on a plateau in the middle of nowhere. At the cabins there is a geothermal hot pond where you can enjoy a warm bath. We skipped that this time since the winds were a real pain, very strong and firmly insisting on blowing you over, as well as trying to empty the trunk of the car.
Due to the hard winds we had lunch more or lees sitting in the front seats inside the car. Afterwards we pressed onto another jeep track, the F752, witch would take us back north over the Vesturdalur to the village Varmahlið. The track took us though some rivers and on the way we spotted a rather big beautiful waterfall, unmarked in the map, and quite far away. To get a proper photograph I had to use the 70-200 mm. f/4.0L II lens along with the 1.4X II teleconverter. I wonder why this waterfall are not mentioned anywhere, being rather spectacular and beautiful. Might be added to the list of interesting things to investigate more on a future trip.
At the village Varmahlið we had an afternoon break, and since the weather were quite nice, sunny and warm we had an ice cream.
Satisfied and full after the ice cream we went on in an westerly direction towards the famous cliff Hvitserkur at the fjord Húnafjörður. Hvitserkur are famous because it is supposed to look like a monster. We arrived in lovely sunny weather, and walked the path to look at the monster; well it looked kind of like a monster; but it was significant quite smaller than we expected, and we were disappointed. I grant you the disappointment were partly due to our expectations, but seeing it on several photos in books and brochures we expected a bit more.
After, not being frightened by the monster Hvitserkur, we went due north to the very northern tip of the peninsula Vatnsnes to look at the colony of seals that has settled here, and should be one of the biggest in Iceland. Vatnsnes are also well know for it´s rich wildlife, especially many birds live here. While the seals were hard to watch without a very strong binocular, the birds variety were great, Eider, Arctic tern, Puffin and several species of Ducks and Geese.
After circumnavigating the full perimeter of the peninsula we went on to search for a campingsite not so far of the main road 1, called Dæli, and we succeed almost at first try.
Supper were prepared around nine o´clock in the finest weather, nearly no winds, sunshine and blue skies.
The mountains east of the valley at the start of mountain road F821
The Highlands somewhere on F821
Small lake in the Highlands somewhere on mountain road F821
Crossing a river in the Highlands on mountain road F752
Unnamed waterfall in the distance
The erosion of the mountains clearly visible
Coming down from the highland and meeting up with the river Vatnsdalsu
The river Vatnsdalsu
Hvitserkur
A closer view on Hvitserkur
The colony of seals north of the peninsula Vatnsnes
Arctic tern
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Monday, August 22, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 24, 2011. Dæli to Selfoss
This fifth day in Iceland would bring some changes to the weather, and sadly the change were not to the better
The waterfall Kolugljufur
Yesterdays choice of campsite for the overnight stay were based on the fact that another of the numerous beautiful waterfalls in Iceland were located not far away in the Viðdalur valley. Just below the farm Vididalsa the river flows into a magnificent gorge creating a powerful waterfall.
After the visit to Kolugljufur we headed northeast on the main road 1 towards the city Blönduós on the east cost of the fjord Húnafjörður. We had to fill the car up with diesel before heading south via the Kjölur route to cross the highland and reach the southern cost line. So after discharging a bag of poor tasting apples into the bin at the gas station, we left the city via road 731, passed east of the lake Svinavatn, the farm Eyvindarstaðir and the power plant nearby were we meet up with the Kjörlur route.
Not long after we reached the highlands the weather turned windy and rainy, making it hard to tell sky from land. On the route south we passed several lakes, Friðumundsvatn, þrtitikla, Blöndulón, Eyjanvatn and Mjóavatn. Some of these lakes are dammed and they all are connected by canals made in order to secure sufficient waterflow to feed the power plant further downstream to the north.
After some hours making the way though the rain and winds we reached Hveravellir, another place where the heat from the underground boils the water and creates geothermal hot ponds. Hveravellir has a cabin and a camping site, and also a tourist hut to accommodate a few people.
The weather had deteriorated further and we had another lunch in the car, - the rain and winds making it impossible to be comfortably outdoors during lunch.
After lunch we set out to explore yet another small Jeep track (I just love these small tracks that are a challenge to drive, and where you defiantly need the all wheel drive, a low ratio gearbox, and from time to time a centre diff-lock, and where you will meet no uncomming traffic, or rather no traffic at all), the F735 leading towards þjófadalir and closer to the icecap Langjökull (1.450 m.), witch we had only seen last year from a distance. But to our dissatisfaction the icecap were hidden in mist, fog, clouds, rain and all other kind of unpleasant "substances", completely blocking the view to Langjökull, so we drove back to the Kjörlur route and headed further south.
Later that afternoon when we were a bit further south the weather did cooperate a bit, and we were able to pause on a small hill and overlook parts of the uninhabited highlands and the icecap Hofsjökull and the biggest icecap of them all, Vatnajökull.
After soaking up some of the special views to be seen in Iceland we headed on towards the city Selfoss, we had decided that this night it would be okay to take shelter from the rain at our favorite hotel in the city. We had been here a few times last year, and it seemed like a fair value to money solution for an overnight stay.
After a minimal effort to get the most necessary stuff into the room we headed out to do some shopping. So this night we had a proper evening meal with some chicken as I recall, and a warm bed to sleep in.
Another view of the waterfall Kolugljufur
And yet another view of the waterfall Kolugljufur, the farm Vididalsa far left
Hveravellir
Hveravellir
Hveravellir
Hveravellir
Hveravellir
Overlooking the icecaps and the highlands from a hilltop near the Kjörlur route
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Saturday, August 27, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 25, 2011. Selfoss to Seljaland
Iceland are the youngest country on earth, formed in the newer era of our planet. Iceland are an every chancing landscape and as late as in 1973 the Westmannaeyjar islands were added several new square kilometers in a volcanic eruption.
The waterfall Seljalandfoss, one of the most famous waterfalls in Iceland
After a good nights sleep in a proper bed at the hotel in Selfoss, Emil and I went towards the most southern part of Iceland to cacth the ferry to the Westmannaeyjar islands.
Last year we several times passed the harbor from where the ferry to the islands departs, - but at that time I felt that there were more beautiful places to visit elsewhere in Iceland, so we
But this summer we had the time to visit this group of island just south of Iceland. We had not made any inquiries on ferry departure times in advance, and it turned out that we had a little more than an hour to kill before the departure of the next ferry.
So we used the time to scout for the Dakota airplane wreck that I original saw in a television show called "Fifth Gear". The airplane were used as a set during an intro to a test of the 2007 Puma edition of the classic Land Rover Defender. I had then used the internet to located the GPS position of the Dakota airplane. We did´t actually reach the site of the crash, but we discovered a small track pointing in the right direction. So far, so good, we would certainly be back at a later date when my daughter Sol had joined the party.
The Heimaey are a beautiful place with some stunning cliffs, birds colonies, and several volcanoes, young of age. Only one island out of the 14 islands, the Heimaey, are populated. The last eruption, Eldfell, in 1973 at Heimaey buried several houses in lava, and added a few square kilometers of landmass to the island. In 1963 and eruption the lasted 3,5 years formed an entirely new island, the Surtsey.
On the visit to Heimaey we learned that the inhabitants of this island in a way are a bit like the Americans; the island covering a mere 13 square kilometers are simply packed with cars. It´s a mystery to me why people need to transport themselves around in this place in a car. I´m sure the tourism would benefit form a band on cars on the island.
After a very nice day at the Westmannaeyjar islands in some fairly nice weather, we took the return trip to Iceland on the ferry, and decided to stay at the camping site at the famous waterfall Seljalandfoss.
After a nice evening meal we went off to climb the cliff from where the waterfall Seljalandfoss plunges the 60 m. down from the former coastline into the small lake. We went hiking for some hours, enjoyed the view at Austur-Landeyjar in one direction and þórsmörk in the opposite, and later in evening the beautiful sunset just in between over the Markarfljót.
A newly build summerhouse on Bjarnarey, one of the Westmannaeyjar islands
The lighthouse on the cliff Faxasker north off the Heimaey island
The northern part of the Heimaey island
Approaching the harbor at the Heimaey island
The colorfull houses in the streets of the village on the Heimaey island
Lava field formed in the 1973 eruption witch destroyed some of the houses in the northern perimeter of the village
Near the summit of the volcano formed in 1973
The summit of the crater born in the 1973 eruption
The islands Bjarnarey and Eliðaey north of Heimaey, Iceland in the far distance
A overlook over the village
Another view of the island Bjarnarey and Eliðaey north of Heimaey
A overview of the village on Heimaey
A fishing vessel in the harbor
A collection of fishing vessels in the harbor
The camping site and the Seljalandfoss in the distance
The Seljalandfoss
The Giljafrafoss waterfall, just north of the Seljalandfoss
Overlooking the Markarfljót
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Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 26, 2011. Seljaland to Selfoss
Today were reserved for the trip to Laki, one of the places on the must visit list of sites. But today the Icelandic weather played the leading role, and we were not satisfied with the performance.
A abandoned house near Seljalandfoss
After eating breakfast, and the usual routine of getting the sleeping bags, the sleeping madrases and the tent together, we set out on route 1 towards east and the small mountain road F206 witch would eventually takes us to Laki.
Laki or Lakagígar (Craters of Laki) is a volcanic fissure situated in the south of Iceland, not far from the canyon of Eldgjá and the small village Kirkjubæjarklaustur, in South-East Iceland.
Lakagígar is the correct name as the Laki mountain itself did not erupt, but fissures opened up on each side of it. Lakagígar is part of a volcanic system, centering on the Grímsvötn volcano and including the Þórðarhyrna volcano. It lies between the glaciers of Mýrdalsjökull and Vatnajökull, in an area of fissures which run in a south-west to north-east direction.
The system erupted over an 8 month period during 1783-1784 from the Laki fissure and the adjoining Grímsvötn volcano, pouring out an estimated 14 km3 of basalt lava and clouds of poisonous hydrofluoric acid/sulfur-dioxide compounds that killed over 50% of Iceland´s livestock population, leading to famine which killed approximately 25% of the population.
We also drove on F206 last year, but never made it all the way to Laki. We were instead eager to follow a small jeep track witch took of from the mountain road in a westerly direction. The track though got so challenging that we actually had to abandon the plan to do a circle back to the F206, and head back the same way as we arrived. This were actually the first time we had to face defeat for the 4x4 Touareg last year, and unwillingly accept that after all there are limits to the capabilities of a normal stock model like mine.
I know from photos in books, and on the internet, that the Laki area, and the mountain itself (818 m.) are a very beautiful place. But just after leaving the main road the weather got worse, and fog, rain and mist would ruin the sights totally. In a optimistic mode we drove all the 45 km. up the mountain road to the parking lot at the foot of the Laki mountain hoping for a turn in weather to the better.
As I recall the clock was way past two p.m. when we arrived, just to learn that rain and heavy gusts of wind would make further investigation an extremely challenging experience. So we had lunch in the comfort of the car and beaten by the Icelandic nature we had to head back and leave the highlands with unfinished business.
Next day, the 27th of June we had a appointment at the Keflavik airport, so we decided to drive back to Selfoss and the well know hotel here. Selfoss are fairly close to Keflavik and we would be able to sleep to seven o´clock and still make it in good time to join up with my daughter Sol, Emils bigger sister, whom would arrive by plane from Denmark to keep us company for the last week of the holidays.
Back at the hotel in Selfoss I would realize that this day, in middle of the amazing Icelandic landscape, I only got inspired to attempt around five to seven photographs, the two of the abandoned house being the only proper ones, - that´s how bad the conditions were today.
Abandoned house and some older buildings nearby, just south-east of the Giljafrafoss waterfall
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Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 27, 2011. Selfoss to Selfoss
This day was to be a different kind of day than the previous ones for Emil and I, - we would spend almost an entire day in a capital city. Well, it was actually quite nice to just walk around in the capital of Iceland, Reykjavík
Inside the most visited church in Iceland, the Hallgrímskirkja
Emil and I were at the Keflavík airport at the western tip of the Reykjanes peninsula, just on time as the airplane from Copenhagen landed in the grey, cloudy and rainy weather, and most kindly spited out my lovely daughter Sol.
Sol had several plans for her (rather long) summer vacation, but luckily, Sol would join in on the Icelandic adventure and keep Emil and I company for the last week in Iceland, and the two days long ferry travel back to the harbor at Hirtshals in Denmark.
Sol had requested that we would spend the day at Reykjavík. Emil and I were here last year for a few hours, but it seemed like a good idea to get a deeper and better knowledge of the Icelandic capital. We were in a bit of luck after all, and the weather changed at bit to the better side as we left the airport at Keflavík and got closer to Reykjavík.
We had a lovely day strolling up and down the streets in the city, visiting some of the famous buildings and places in the city, and we only lost track of Sol on a few occasions. After visiting all the Icelandic outdoor clothing marque stores, 66o North, Cintamani, Eldborg, and ZO-ON, we had an early snack/cup of the/coffee/milk shake-break in a café, - partly to take shelter from a passing rain shower, partly to refill Sol whom have had a very early morning rise in order to catch the plane, and later also a nice lunch, with seafood for some of us, in a lovely bistro near the city center.
Amongst the buildings we visited were the Hallgrímskirkja church. It took 38 years to build the church, construction work began in 1945 and ended in 1986. According to the architect Guðjón Samúelsson the exterior design is made to resemble the basalt lava flows of Iceland´s landscape (sorry I don´t have an exterior shoot, but you will get the point if you have seen it).
After leaving the capital to head for the usual hotel in Selfoss we still had time to some adventure, and headed south to visit the lake Kleifarvatn in the Reykjanes Nature Reserve. Unfortunately the rain had returned and we saw most of the sight from within the comfort of the car. But this lake and lava beaches along the shores were just stunningly beautiful.
On the road towards the coastline we visited another geothermal area with sulfurous gasses and boiling water, the Krisuvik. This area had also been explored earlier in time in order to extract access heat from within the earth. Unfortunately the drilling in the underground had coursed a fatal explosion, and the project were abandoned.
On our way east towards Selfoss we also passed the coastline at the bay Herdisarvik, the lake Hlilarvatn and the villages þorlâkshöfn and Eyrarbakki, we passed the rivers joined into Öjfusá where it flows into the ocean at Eyrarbakkabugur.
The geothermal area Krisuvik, #1
The geothermal area Krisuvik, #2
The geothermal area Krisuvik, #3
The geothermal area Krisuvik, #4
The geothermal area Krisuvik, #5
The geothermal area Krisuvik, #6
Link: http://www.66north.com
Link: http://www.cintamani.is
Link: http://www.zo-on.is
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Thursday, September 01, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 28, 2011. Selfoss to Svinafell
If I were to pick one route for a singles days trip, the route of today would most certainly be on the top there in the list, and if not a winner, for sure a runners up
Seljalandfoss plunges 60 m. down into a small lake
Today would turn out to a very nice one indeed, amongst the greatest of them all during my visits to Iceland. We would see some very spectacular sights, and look upon greats views and beautiful wildlife.
The day began again in the town of Selfoss, witch with its population of 4.000 are the biggest town in South Iceland, by clearing the room after breakfast and getting all our stuff back into the car.
We then set of in a eastbound direction witch mostly would take us along the cost on the main route no. 1. First stop the waterfall Seljalandfoss, Emil and I had been here numerous times at this point, but a revisit to this famous waterfall are never out of interest, and we wanted Sol to experience it to. I for one will never have enough photos of it I think, every time there´s a new angel, a fresh view, a new weather situation, and a new quality of light.
Afterwards we were of to the next big waterfall in southern Iceland, the Skógafoss. This visit would also be at least a number two for Emil and I, but again this waterfall also offered some new angels and a new mood. Skógafoss and Seljalandfoss are both around 60 m. high, Skógafoss being the biggest, and Seljalandfoss the most beautiful in my eyes.
After we had experienced Skógafoss we were on the road again to visit the crash site of a American Dakota airplane, witch were forced to do an emergency landing on the lava beach at Skógasandur many years ago.
Emil and I had been out scouting for the site a few days earlier, and we headed of onto the small track we had located at this time. The narrow track took off though a wire fence by the roadside, and it soon changed to a maze of nearly invisible tire tracks, - the rain and mist deteriorating the poor visibility further.
But with the GPS coordinates, witch I was able to snap from Google earth, locked into the GPS unit we went on into the unknown; navigating partly by sight, partly by the GPS display, and after some 5 km. we suddenly spotted the wreck of the aircraft, not far from the Atlantic Ocean and the glacier river Jókulsa. We then found ourself in a world of mystery and exquisiteness, all alone in this great plain of black lava gravel, the sound of breaking ocean waves in the distance, trapped in time, wrapped up in rain, fog and wind gusts, staring at this old out off place aluminium construction.
Back in civilization and on the main road no. 1, we set out to reach another beach at the Atlantic ocean, the black lava beach and the stunning lava cave at Reynisdrangar, just south-west of the village Vik. Vik are the most southerly village in Iceland and has around 600 inhabitants and faces the open Atlantic ocean. North of Vik rises the bulk of the 700 km2 Myrdalsjökull glacier, Iceland´s fourth largest.
After shooting numerous photos on the beach and in the lava cave, we finally headed onwards. Or you might actually say backwards, we realized that we had passed the Dyrhólaey cliff going east on our way to Reynisdrangar, so we made a return trip of a few kilometers in a westerly direction. Dyrhólaey, where the unique rock arch is found, is a 120 m. high promontory in the western part of the Myrdalur district. Dyrhólaey is Iceland´s most southerly tip, and host a lighthouse and several birds colonies, amongst one of them a colony of puffins.
Then followed another drive though some beautiful places in southern Iceland, the black Myrdalssandur, the green Eldhraun, and then the every changing never ending Skeiðarásandur, towards the biggest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions, - the Vatnasjökull. Vatnasjökull covers 13 % of Iceland´s total surface, or 13.600 km2.
After enjoying several peeks though the clouds towards Vatnasjökull we made it to the spectacular glacier lagoon Jökulsálón. Jökulsálón are the main lagoon of several, and is a international unique place, that covers 20 km2. Back in 1932 the area were covered by ice, then the glacier started retreating, so that today up to 100 m. of ice breaks off it every year. Since the lagoon flows to the open sea it contains 50 % salt water, and 50 % fresh water. Seals enjoy the beach from time to time, and during the winter season they can number into hundred individuals.
We were so fortunate that the weather cooperated with us for this afternoon and evening, blessing us with sunshine and blue skies with a few puffy clouds. I, for one, were very busy snapping photographs, and had good use of the 70-200 mm. f/2,8 IS II zoom lens, to capture the structure of the ice and the glacier in the background.
We prepared some supper at the bank of the lagoon, this was truly a spectacular place to have a evening meal, though the menu were not in the same superior class like the surroundings, but we were contend eating a plain tomato soup with pasta and slices of bread, and for desert some canned peaches.
This evening will forever be in a special place in my heart, - the silence, the grandeur of the landscape, the visual impact of the huge glacier, the amaze of it all... - and most of all, the privilege just to be fortunate being here.
Filled up with impression we headed back west towards the camping site at Skaftafell, where we would sleep this night. Fate would blend in though and we ended up on another campsite at Svinafell, but it really didn´t matter at all. We hastily set up the tent for the night as it were darkening quit rapidly, afterwards we went down the road a bit to say hello and good night to some Icelandic horses.
Seljalandfoss plunges 60 m. down into a small lake. You can easily walk behind it
The mist and low hanging clouds covers the small spires on the mountains near the main road 1
Skógafoss from above
Skógafoss, like Seljalandfoss falls 60 m. down
Skógafoss, from the middle
Skógafoss, ones more now from bellow
The Dakota airplane wreck and the Touareg - old and new aluminium
The Dakota airplane wreck
The Dakota airplane wreck
The Dakota airplane wreck
Reynisdrangar beach
The cave at Reynisdrangar beach
Reynisdrangar beach
Reynisdrangar beach, Dyrhólaey cliff far left
Reynisdrangar beach
Dyrhólaey cliff
The beach bellow Dyrhólaey cliff
Dyrhólaey cliff, the famous arch
Dyrhólaey cliff, the famous arch
Dyrhólaey cliff, the famous arch
Dyrhólaey cliff, looking north
Dyrhólaey cliff, looking west
Puffin colony, Dyrhólaey cliff
Dyrhólaey cliff
Lighthouse on Dyrhólaey cliff
The bridge crossing one of the glacial river where torn aside from its pillars in a violent flood earlier this year
The glacier Svinafellsjökull
The glacier Svinafellsjökull
The glacier Svinafellsjökull
Jökulsálón lagoon
Jökulsálón lagoon
Jökulsálón lagoon, a group of birds passing by
Jökulsálón lagoon
Jökulsálón lagoon
Jökulsálón lagoon
Jökulsálón lagoon
The glacier Svinafellsjökull
Some Icelandic horses at the camping site at Svinafell
Some Icelandic horses at the camping site at Svinafell
A beautiful Icelandic horse
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Saturday, September 03, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 29, 2011. Svinafell to Selfoss
Today would be another lesson in how different Icelandic nature and climate can be, and how it will change, for short distances and span in time.
The mountain Svienstindur (1.090 m.) south of the lake Langisjór
We left the campsite at Svinafell located at the foot of the mighty glacier Vatnajökull, the biggest in the world outside the Arctic regions. The farm at Svinafell was original the home of Flosi þóeðarson, the character who burned out Njál and his family in Njáls saga.
We headed back west passing over the Skeiðararsandur just south of the glacier Skeiðarrárjökull, driving on the main road nr. 1 towards the place where it will intersect with the unpaved mountain road F208, witch leads north-west though some truly spectacular landscapes. So after a stopover in the village Kirkjubæjarklaustur, to refill the car with some diesel and top off food supplies, we headed on in some lovely late morning weather, - sunshine and the warm temperatures demanding for t-shirts as a dress code.
After several stops on the 40 km. drive, to admire the landscapes and snap some photographs, I succeeded in persuading Sol and Emil that we had to take a detour to visit the lake Langisjór (was on the must see list). So we took a right hand turn and went off in an north-easterly direction on F235. A few days earlier I had made inquiries with a local Icelandic chap about the road conditions, since we earlier on occasion had been forced to turn back prematurely, and since the map indicated rough terrain and several river crossings, I would not risk this again. I was told that the road and river crossings would not be a problem for us and the car.
After driving, in what seemed an eternity to some members of the party, we arrived at Langisjór. Langisjór are a 20 km. long and 2 km. wide lake situated high up in the highlands, at an altitude of 680 m. above sea level, and far off from any habituated places in Iceland. The remote location ensures that the lake are amongst the purest mountain lakes in Iceland. On one bank of the lake lies the mountain Tungnárfjöll, and across the lake raises the mountain Fögrufjöll. The lake is so remote that it were discovered as late as in the year 1878. At this place you really fell alone in the world, the beauty and the silence of the place was quite impressive.
After some time we made a u-turn and headed back to F208 towards the camp site at Landmannalagur, a well know area with several hot ponds and rich colored mountains, and also the beginning of the Landmannalagur to þórsmörk hiking trial. The plan were to set up the tent a stay until the day after, enjoy the hot ponds and hike the entire day in the area. But the weather were really really bad, cold hard rain, and windy gusts sweept the place, so we chickened out of there. We went further west on F208 until we meet up with another mountain road, the F225 witch eventually would take us to some better roads with tarmac, - and so it did. We passed Hekla on the way going south, the peak was as nearly always covered in low hanging clouds.
We, ones more, ended up in the hotel at Selfoss late in the evening, it still rained from dark skies with heavy clouds. We were happy to be back in civilization. In spite of the change in plans, and the missed out hiking, we were all content and full of impressions, and so we dived into bed early.
View of the Vatnajökull glacier seen from Skeiðararsandur
Finally! Sol got to use her sunglasses
A brooder view of the Vatnajökull glacier seen from Skeiðararsandur, and the highest peak in Iceland Hvannadalshnúkur (2.110 m.)
Somewhere on the F208
The moss covered lava landscape at Skraftártunga
A lovely and very small flower at Skraftártunga
The river Skraftá
Somewhre on mountain road F235
Langisjór and the mountain Tungnárfjöll (1.018 m.)
The northern shores of Langisjór
The mountain Svienstindur (1.090 m.)
Mountains south of Langisjór, and a small party of 4x4´s
Mountains south of Langisjór
Mountains south of Langisjór
Langisjór
On our way back from Langisjór, somewhere on F235
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Monday, September 05, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 30, 2011. Selfoss to Selfoss
The weather were in the rainy mood these days, and again the low hanging rain clouds would rop us from some of the beautiful views
Small mountain west of Myrdalsjökull
Today we set out to circumnavigate the glacier Myrdalsjökull, and make a full clockwise 360o drive around it. We followed the main road nr. 1 eastward again until we could turn north-east on the mountain road F261 followring the river Markarfljót towards þórsmörk, we passed the farm Einhyringur and were so lucky that the weather improved a bit giving us some good views at the glacier Entujökull and the Myrdalsjökull itself.
North of Emstur we took a detour to visit the mountain Hrafntinusker, passing the mountainhuts at Hvanngil and the lake Álfavátn. We managed to cross the river at Hvanngil, a crossing we were afraid to pass last year, but with good assistance by the cars low ratio gearbox and the center diff-lock, we just managed to succeed this time.
The landscape between Landmannalaugar and Emstur are a magnificent blend of mountains in all color shades of red, orange and brown, and in between blue and green rivers, add some lovely acid green moos and grasses, sprinkled with a few spots of snow and ice, and it looks like nowhere else on earth, (I suppose). I would love to maneuver around in this landscape for days, taking photographs and enjoying the lovely solitude and quietness, I´m in love with this place.
As I neglected to do some proper navigation, the result were that we just missed the crossing at the final road towards the mountain Hrafntinusker by a few kilometers. The jeep track north towards Landmannalaugar where somewhat a bigger challenge, and in worse condition, as compared to last year, so it was just after we had headed back south again towards Myrdalsjökull, that I realized that we actually had driven this road last year, and we were in another place than I expected.
I actually realized this just as we had driven up a very steep hill, because I wanted to demonstrate the cars capabilities to Sol, just as I did last year to impress Emil, and I suddenly recognized the view from the hilltop. Well, it´s to bad, - the Hrafntinusker were on the must see list for this year. I wanted to get there in order to experience the small local glacier, that are supposed to be here, and witch will gone in a matter of years.
So we drove over the black lava plain Mælifellssandur just north of Myrdalsjökull, passed the glaciers Sléttjökull, Öldufellsjökull and Sandfellsjökull as we went east, and later south-east. Unfortunately the rain started again and we were unable to fully enjoy the spectacular scenery to been seen here, as I know from last year.
Well back on the main road nr. 1 we headed back towards the hotel at Selfoss again, this time with Sol at the steering wheel.
We arrived late in the evening in the pouring rain, we did some shopping and had some lovely supper with local Icelandic lamb meet. I had hoped for better weather conditions during the day, so that we would have had a better view off the mountains and lava fields, but unfortunately that´s all a part of spending your summer holidays in Iceland.
Myrdalsjökull in the distance, covered in clouds
Myrdalsjökull
Myrdalsjökull and the river Markarfljött
The landscape west of Myrdalsjökull
North-west of Myrdalsjökul somewhere on F210
The mountain Laufafell, summit hidden in heavy clouds (1.164 m.)
The landscape near Álfavatn
The landscape between Álfavatn and Hrafntinusker
The landscape between Álfavatn and Hrafntinusker
The landscape between Álfavatn and Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just west of Hrafntinusker
The landscape just north of Álfavátn
A small waterfall east of Rjupnafell
Sol at the steering wheel, driving back towards Selfoss in the evening light
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Saturday, September 10, 2011
Amazing Iceland - June 31, 2011. Selfoss to Myvatn
The Sprengisandur route. A replay from last years drive.
The waterfall Aldeyjafoss with its lava basalt columns, near the farm Myri
Time and weather forced us to take the Sprengisandur route to get us from south to northern Iceland. The mountain roads takes you though some of the most remote parts of Iceland. After a while most people might find the view from the track monotone, but I´m again pleased and full of amazement of this place. To me the place are a constantly changing landscape composed of rock, stone, boulders, rivers and glaciers, always unveiling themselves in a ever changing composition and perspective.
The Sprengisandur route will take you north on the trail passing in between the migthy glacier Vatnajökull on the right, and the smaller Hofsjökull on the left, forcing you to ford numerous rivers on the passage.
On the way you will pass a small mountain hut at the feet of the tiny glacier Tungaafjellsjökull, this is the only time you will encounter some evidence of human presence in this wast wilderness. We had lunch in the car, as usual, due to some heavy cold wind gusts sweeping the plains, no vegetation will offer some shelter here in this hostile environment, nothing will offer to slow the winds down a bit.
Last year when Emil and I passed by, the riverbed were covered with some beautiful arctic flowers, this time the riverbeds were empty.
We headed onwards north, meeting nearly nobody else on the trail. In the afternoon we suffered a puncture on the right front wheel, I was driving a bit to fast and managed to hit a small rock in the roadside smack on. The spare wheel were changed in a matter of about 5 min., and we headed on to make a visit at the waterfall Aldeyjafoss on the glacier river from Vatnajökull.
We arrived at the planed camping site at the banks of the lake Myvatn. As I recall we had a very early night, eager to get in the sleeping bags to get some warmth, the weather being a bit on the cold side.
The glacier Hofsjökull
The glacier Hofsjökull
Photo from last year, the beautifull flower field at the Tungaafjellsjökull glacier
The waterfall Aldeyjafoss
The lava columns at the waterfall Aldeyjafoss
The waterfall Aldeyjafoss
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Monday, September 12, 2011
Amazing Iceland - August 1, 2011. Myvatn to Askja
Today was a National Holiday in Iceland, little did we know about it, but it had quite a impact on today´s schedule.
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd at the feet of the Námafjell ridge
On the schedule for today was getting a new spare tire, as we did´t want to go inland again with no possible escape opportunity if another puncture occurred. We also had to fill the car with diesel, and fill up the food supplies; so we packed the camp down and headed towards Reykjahlið.
While Sol and Emil did the shopping I went to the tourist office to get some advice on where to get the tire fixed. We were in luck, so far, as there were a tire shop in town. After the shopping was done we went to the tire shop, witch turned out to be abandoned. After numerous phone calls I succeed in getting hold of the owner, whom where hard to talk into showing up at the shop, but nevertheless after a short while he turned up. After some waiting he finally got around to look at the tire, and it soon were evident that the tire was broken so bad that a fix was not possible.
So his advise were to head to Akureyri to get a new tire. But before we set off towards the bigger city we made a visit to the pastel colored landscape at the Námafjell ridge, just east of the city Reykjahlið and the Myvatn lake.
The Námafjell ridge, and the plain Hverarönd at it´s feet, are laying just on the spreading zone of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and is dotted with steaming vents, sulphur deposits and boiling mud and water. We climbed to the summit of Námafjell to enjoy the grande view of the area and the lake Myvatn and the mountain Vindbelgjarfjall just west of the lake. we also had a quick visit to the Krafla region 7 km. north of the ring road nr. 1. The area hosts a geothermal power station and the Visti explosion crater, and Mont Krafla (818 m.) itself. After a short visit and some lunch at the Visti crater we went onwards to fix the flat tire problem.
After our arrival at Akureyri we drove around a short while, and quickly found a few automobile shops near the harbor area. Only problem were that they were all closed. On trying to get into a showroom at a VW dealer I managed to get contact to an employee, whom kindly unlocked the door to the shop and asked if he could be of any assistance. So it turned out that this was the Icelandic National holiday today, and good advice were hard to find.
But after a while the kind chap a the VW dealer told me he had found a tire shop with a emergency phone. So we got the address, went there, and 10 min. after two men turned up to help us out of our misery.
Akureyri also offered a visit to a cafe, with the usual hot chocolate for the ´kids´, and black coffee for me, - nice to enjoy a proper made cup of coffee, and to soak up the laid back slowness in the cafe.
We soon were able to head back to Askja and head inland into the highlands to reach Askja and the camp site there. The weather again did not cooperate, and the further into the highlands we got the skies got darker and darker, until we reached Askja and the rain.
We set up camp, prepared supper in the tent, witch went on without setting the tent on fire, and got into the sleeping back early, since there was noting to see or do, the visibility being around 50-100 m.
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd and the Námafjell ridge
The pastel colored landscape Hverarönd and the Námafjell ridge
Sulphur deposits
The view from the top of the Námafjell ridge
The view from the top of the Námafjell ridge overlooking Hverarönd
The view from the top of the Námafjell ridge
Some flowers on the top of the Námafjell ridge
Overlooking Reykjahlið, the Myvatn lake, and the mountain Vindbelgjarfjall from the top of the Námafjell ridge
The Námafjell ridge
Sulphur deposits on the Námafjell ridge
The Námafjell ridge
The explosion crater Viti
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Saturday, September 17, 2011
Amazing Iceland - August 2, 2011. Askja to Hallormsstaður
The Highlands unfortunately chose to cover itself in fog and rain again today.
Some of the stunning landscapes in the Highlands north-east of Askja
The weather situation this morning were a extension of last night. And so naturally I´m still amazed whit how much luck we had last year weather wise.
We had breakfast in the tent this morning before we packed our gear, and headed off to take a closer look a Askja, the lake Öskjuvatn and the Viti crater.
Askja are a volcanic area, and it´s difficult to image the enormous power that created this huge 50 square kilometer caldera. Askja are a cold, windy and forbidding place and you easily realize that nature has the power here.
The cataclysm that created the caldera happened as late as 1875 and continued for 30 years and culminated with a collapse of the magma chamber, this time over an area of 30 square kilometers, and as deep as 300 m. below the rim of the original. The collapsed chamber filled with water and became the lake Öskjuvatn, the deepest in Iceland.
The eruption in 1875 also formed a small lake as a vent exploded leaving a deep crater called Viti. The crater still contains a hot spring with water of 25 degrees Cecilius.
When we returned to the car after a 2 hour 30 minutes hike Emil and I had soaking wet trousers from the rain, witch seemed to almost fall in an horizontal direction due to the heavy winds, Sol had as the only one in the party chosen to dress properly, and as the ambient temperature were around 5 degrees Celcius we were quite cold. We had to change cloth before we headed north to follow the mountain road F910 and F905 to get back to the main ring road 1, and make a stopover at the Dettifoos waterfall later in the afternoon.
Driving on F910 takes you though some spectacular scenery, lava gravel in all sort of shades of black, yellow and red, some placed big lava boulders poke though the gravel leaving you with the felling of being on another planet. The landscape are every changing. Luckily the weather turned out to improve to the better as we traveled north.
Arriving at Dettifoss, after a visit to a roadside café on the way, the Hollywood production, witch had more or less closed the place last time we were here, had left the place and we where able to watch the waterfall from the eastern bank, witch in our opinion are the most breathtaking. This was the fourth time I visited the fall, and I´m still overwhelmed by the power of nature that can be seen here.
We had lovely night at a hotel by the lake Lagarfljót and enjoyed a diner buffet with a huge amount of different Icelandic specialties.
Somewhere on F910, lava rocks in many sizes and color
Somewhere on F910, Sol is firings away with her 30D and 10-22 mm. lens
Somewhere on F910, plates of lava and the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum behind
My trusted Touareg parked somewhere on F910, the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum behind
Dettifoss
Dettifoss
Dettifoss
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Sunday, September 18, 2011
Amazing Iceland - Aug. 3, 2011. Hallormsstaður to Seyðisfjörður
Due to bad weather we were in the situation that we ahead of schedule, and the day were planned as we headed on.
The waterfall Hengifoss
All that was planed for today was to visit one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland in my opinion, and with the sheer number of falls in the island, that´s saying a lot.
The waterfall Hengifoss plummets 120 m. down and are Iceland´s third highest waterfall. The color lines in the rock in the canyon are very spectacular. This year the more normal rainfall have made the waterfall bigger last last year. On the way towards Hengifoss you pass a smaller waterfall, the Lítlanesfoss witch are surrounded by vertical basalt columns in a honeycomb formation.
After the out and return walk off around 2 hours, including some photography sessions, to the parking lot we decided to visit the south-east shore, a spot Emil and I missed last year. So we went north-east along the lake Langarfljót and then due south via the roads 937 and 939. On our way over the pass towards the fjord Berufjörður we were submerged in heavy fog and very low hanging clouds, so the view were blogged until we reached a small waterfall near the fjord.
We went along the cost line until we reached the village Djúpivogur on the small peninsula between the fjord Hamarsfjörður and Berufjörður. A cruse ship were anchored in the fjord and there were quite a few tourist in town. We managed to get a table in a lovely small resturant in the local hotel, called ´Hotel Fremtid´ - or in plain English ´Hotel Future´.
After a nice lunch with some great seafood we headed back north and drove all the way to the harbor, at the city Seyðisfjörður, where we would catch the ferry back towards Denmark the following morning at 9 AM. After arrival we set camp at the local camping site, alongside numerous other tourists bound for Denmark. Afterwards we went for a stroll in the old village and later enjoyed the usual hot chocolate/coffee combo at a nice cafe.
The waterfall Lítlanesfoss, downstream from Hengifoss witch can be seen far upper left corner
Closer view to the waterfall Lítlanesfoss and the vertical basalt columns
The waterfall Hengifoss
The waterfall Hengifoss
Unnamed waterfall near the fjord Berufjörður
Waiting for the lunch to be served at a small cozy restaurant in the village Djúpivogur
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